I'm actually writing this on Day 3 as last night all I could manage was a facebook post.
I awakened at 5:45 am. Fortunately I had the presence of mind, on Sunday night, to ask what I might take for breakfast, knowing that nobody would be in the kitchen at that hour. They gave me a bowl of granola, a bowl of fruit, and a yogurt to keep inmy fridge. Good thing as it was going to be a long day.
I went out to the gate at 6:45 and Tony, my new friend from the UK, and his driver for the day, Jean Paul, had just pulled up. Off we went and in a few minutes we were at Amahoro Stadium. We had to get in separate lines as there were hands-on searches being conducted by members of the Republican Guard. My line didn't seem to move at all, but soon I could see Tony and Jean Paul waiting on the steps, on the other side of the gate.
Other lines were formed, men moved past us, and there we stood. Then, a woman came up, spoke to the woman behind me in Kinyarwanda, stepped in front of me, smiled, and said mwaramutse (good morning). I wasn't about to argue, we'd get in soon enough. A little while later, same thing, minus the mwaramutse, but a young girl. "Okay," I thought, "I'm the mizungu (foreigner/white), it's your event." We inched our way forward. The soldier was letting five people line up in front of the soldier doing the searches, followed by a break of about six feet and then the rest of the line, eventually with me in front. At one point, as the five became four then three, a group of five or six women ran up and got in the "front" line, ahead of me. Now I was annoyed. I'm used to hearing kids hollering "Mizungu, mizungu" as a bus load of white people drives by. But, to feel - rightly or not - that people were cutting in front of me because I was Mizungu and they thought I'd do nothing was annoying. Now, to be fair, I did see other women cut the line. But, they were promptly called out for it. This time, with the rush of women, and not caring if they actually understood me, I said, gesturing to my face, "Oh, right, Muzungu, so you can just cut ahead of me." They all started smiling and furiously gesturing... for me to join them! I did not as they were already a larger number than the guards were permitting. I smiled back and waved "No." At about the same time a Republican Guard who I think knew what had transpired gestured for me to move to the front of the line next to us. It was not yet 8:00, I'd already had an interesting day, and we weren't even inside the stadium yet!
Tuesday
Sunday
Day 1
First, a note. This blog was begun to document the travels of Hamline folks to Rwanda, and that it has. The emphasis was on what we were experiencing, learning, etc. This trip, I'm on my own. Rather then try to post in two places, one in a personal blog and about my days, generally, and another here and more limited to my experiences as a faculty member, I'm going to post only in one place, here. So, pardon the comments that may be a bit more in the realm of "what I had for breakfast..."
This morning was a beautiful day in Kigali. I began by reading some news regarding Rwanda and the commemorative events while waiting for brunch. And, speaking of 'breakfast,' I had a nice Heaven omelette with Gouda, avocado, and tomatoes along with home fries, hold the toast. I then headed over to the Union Trade Center where I was able to exchange some cash - and at a slightly better rate than in November and get a cell phone so that I could more readily be in touch with my contacts here.
Then, I visited with a young Rwandan woman, M, who recently completed her undergraduate degree and is working for a bank. We had 'met' via an online language learning site. It looked like the skies were going to open up - it's the rainy season here - so I encouraged her to grab the bus while she could still do so without becoming soaked. I stayed at picked up a few things at the Nakumatt. While doing so, it poured. By the time I was done, it had stopped and all that was left were gutters running like rivers. I walked back to the inn and soon the phone rang. It was another person, D, I had 'met' via the language site wanting to meet at the UTC. So, back I went. We, too, had a great visit, though I have to say that Rwandan tendency to be soft-spoken, an accent, and my bad hearing made both conversations quite a lot of 'work,' though absolutely worth it. I had brought US-Rwanda crossed flag pins with me to give folks as a little token. D was quite tickled with it but, unfortunately, I forgot to give M hers. Insert sad face here.
I had dinner with Tony, a guy I 'met' - yes, all this 'meeting' - through a facebook page about the 20th anniversary of the genocide. He's a British fellow who was so taken with his reading of Romeo Dallaire's 'Shake Hands with the Devil' that he decided he had to come to Rwanda. We had a terrific conversation about his experiences thus far, President Kagame, books, traveling, family, and so on. Tomorrow at 7 am we're going to head over to the commemorative event at the stadium, followed by the Walk to Remember.
I really should have posted about my journey to Rwanda first, but it already seems in the distant past. A recap? Left New Brunswick for Boston - in the snow - at 9 am Thursday - that's 2 pm Kigali time; Bangor Savings wouldn't change my $20s into $100s because I wasn't a customer, but Bangor Federal Credit Union came to my rescue; almost had a fender bender in a parking lot; first flight was delayed... but my layover was long enough that it didn't matter. Ended up with an open seat next to me on the first flight. Yay. Walking through the Detroit airport the sole of one of my Tevas peeled off in one piece. not kidding. Had an interesting elderly woman as a seat companion on the flight to Amsterdam. Three cheers for Yotel Amsterdam where I was able to shower. Saw a Kigali-bound Oklahoma woman with big hair that turned out to not be hers get seriously body searched - I'm talking real breast pinching - until she demanded the search be completed elsewhere. She was so not happy. Watched 'Out of the Furnace' and 'Gravity' on the flight to Kigali. We landed at 7:15 pm. When, at landing, they switched on the Muzak it was Pharrell's 'Happy.' Perfect! Being just south of the equator, it's dark at that hour. While waiting - and waiting and waiting - for my bag, the power went out. Just briefly, but enough to be freaky. Got the hotel and collapsed. So, including the travels to Boston, I'd call it about 54 hours door-to-door. But, I'm here and I had a good day. Tomorrow will, I'm sure, have a very different feel, but I'm sure it will be no less interesting. G' night!
This morning was a beautiful day in Kigali. I began by reading some news regarding Rwanda and the commemorative events while waiting for brunch. And, speaking of 'breakfast,' I had a nice Heaven omelette with Gouda, avocado, and tomatoes along with home fries, hold the toast. I then headed over to the Union Trade Center where I was able to exchange some cash - and at a slightly better rate than in November and get a cell phone so that I could more readily be in touch with my contacts here.
Then, I visited with a young Rwandan woman, M, who recently completed her undergraduate degree and is working for a bank. We had 'met' via an online language learning site. It looked like the skies were going to open up - it's the rainy season here - so I encouraged her to grab the bus while she could still do so without becoming soaked. I stayed at picked up a few things at the Nakumatt. While doing so, it poured. By the time I was done, it had stopped and all that was left were gutters running like rivers. I walked back to the inn and soon the phone rang. It was another person, D, I had 'met' via the language site wanting to meet at the UTC. So, back I went. We, too, had a great visit, though I have to say that Rwandan tendency to be soft-spoken, an accent, and my bad hearing made both conversations quite a lot of 'work,' though absolutely worth it. I had brought US-Rwanda crossed flag pins with me to give folks as a little token. D was quite tickled with it but, unfortunately, I forgot to give M hers. Insert sad face here.
I had dinner with Tony, a guy I 'met' - yes, all this 'meeting' - through a facebook page about the 20th anniversary of the genocide. He's a British fellow who was so taken with his reading of Romeo Dallaire's 'Shake Hands with the Devil' that he decided he had to come to Rwanda. We had a terrific conversation about his experiences thus far, President Kagame, books, traveling, family, and so on. Tomorrow at 7 am we're going to head over to the commemorative event at the stadium, followed by the Walk to Remember.
I really should have posted about my journey to Rwanda first, but it already seems in the distant past. A recap? Left New Brunswick for Boston - in the snow - at 9 am Thursday - that's 2 pm Kigali time; Bangor Savings wouldn't change my $20s into $100s because I wasn't a customer, but Bangor Federal Credit Union came to my rescue; almost had a fender bender in a parking lot; first flight was delayed... but my layover was long enough that it didn't matter. Ended up with an open seat next to me on the first flight. Yay. Walking through the Detroit airport the sole of one of my Tevas peeled off in one piece. not kidding. Had an interesting elderly woman as a seat companion on the flight to Amsterdam. Three cheers for Yotel Amsterdam where I was able to shower. Saw a Kigali-bound Oklahoma woman with big hair that turned out to not be hers get seriously body searched - I'm talking real breast pinching - until she demanded the search be completed elsewhere. She was so not happy. Watched 'Out of the Furnace' and 'Gravity' on the flight to Kigali. We landed at 7:15 pm. When, at landing, they switched on the Muzak it was Pharrell's 'Happy.' Perfect! Being just south of the equator, it's dark at that hour. While waiting - and waiting and waiting - for my bag, the power went out. Just briefly, but enough to be freaky. Got the hotel and collapsed. So, including the travels to Boston, I'd call it about 54 hours door-to-door. But, I'm here and I had a good day. Tomorrow will, I'm sure, have a very different feel, but I'm sure it will be no less interesting. G' night!
Monday
Heaven, etc.
Well, I never did get to making that additional post about Heaven. So, as I prepare to leave for Rwanda, there's no time like the present, eh? Really, the best way to learn about Heaven is to read the book. It's a wonderful account of Josh and Alissa Ruxin's experience traveling to Rwanda, getting settled, and - ultimately - founding Heaven.
As their website notes, "Heaven is more than a restaurant & inn, it's a social enterprise. Heaven is helping Rwanda develop its most important resource: it's people. Prosperity creation is one of Rwanda's many challenges..."
I had wonderful banana chips and guacamole, followed by my current addiction - terrific fish tacos. We sat on the beautiful patio, looking out at the lights of Kigali. You can't see the lights here - check out their website for that - but you get the idea.
In planning my fourth visit to Rwanda, but my first without a guide, I decided to splurge and spend my time in Kigali at Heaven, the inn. I've worked with Alissa and Caleb, their office manager, to iron out the many details and they have been tremendously helpful. I'll be able to walk to the UTC if I wish - Bourbon Coffee, Nakumatt, and MTN and I'm familiar with other restaurants in the area. So, all in all I think this will be perfect. I arrive on the 5th!
I will spend the first three days in Kigali, meeting with a few folks - details in other posts, I hope - and participate in the Walk to Remember as the official period of mourning begins. From there I am planning on traveling to Kayonza, in the Eastern Province, to meet with the Gashora student who will matriculate at Hamline next fall. After a day there, I am expecting to travel down to Huye where I will again meet with people in that area. I'm not posting a lot of details since things have a tendency to, um, evolve over the course of one's travels. But, after three nights in Huye, I'll return to Kigali, spend the night, and fly out the next day, returning to the US on the 15th.
As the availability of Internet permits, I will post about my experiences. Stay tuned and thanks for checking in!
As their website notes, "Heaven is more than a restaurant & inn, it's a social enterprise. Heaven is helping Rwanda develop its most important resource: it's people. Prosperity creation is one of Rwanda's many challenges..."
I had wonderful banana chips and guacamole, followed by my current addiction - terrific fish tacos. We sat on the beautiful patio, looking out at the lights of Kigali. You can't see the lights here - check out their website for that - but you get the idea.
In planning my fourth visit to Rwanda, but my first without a guide, I decided to splurge and spend my time in Kigali at Heaven, the inn. I've worked with Alissa and Caleb, their office manager, to iron out the many details and they have been tremendously helpful. I'll be able to walk to the UTC if I wish - Bourbon Coffee, Nakumatt, and MTN and I'm familiar with other restaurants in the area. So, all in all I think this will be perfect. I arrive on the 5th!
I will spend the first three days in Kigali, meeting with a few folks - details in other posts, I hope - and participate in the Walk to Remember as the official period of mourning begins. From there I am planning on traveling to Kayonza, in the Eastern Province, to meet with the Gashora student who will matriculate at Hamline next fall. After a day there, I am expecting to travel down to Huye where I will again meet with people in that area. I'm not posting a lot of details since things have a tendency to, um, evolve over the course of one's travels. But, after three nights in Huye, I'll return to Kigali, spend the night, and fly out the next day, returning to the US on the 15th.
As the availability of Internet permits, I will post about my experiences. Stay tuned and thanks for checking in!
Saturday
Kigali
Another terrific day in Kigali. Shortly after 10 am we went over to the Umubano Hotel and met with Peter, Amy, and Marie from Gashora, Linda and her parents and two younger brothers, and two representatives from the US Embassy. Peter had arranged for a lovely ramada on the back lawn and the weather was very cooperative. It was an absolutely lovely setting. We were even visited by three striking Grey Crowned Cranes, the national bird of Uganda!
Peter served as our master of ceremonies while various folks offered their comments. I then spoke and presented Linda with the certificate stating that she was receiving the scholarship. I also had Hamline bags with various Hamline swag to distribute. Thanks Gail and Caroline! Then others, such as Linda's dad and Linda, spoke to express their gratitude. All in all it was a fabulous little gathering and Ithink everyone enjoyed themselves. I'll try to post some photos another time.
Ann and I then went to the Belgium Troop Memorial, saw a lot of Kigali, went to Bourbon Coffee for a snack, went to the Caplaki Market for some souvenir time, saw more of Kigali, and then went out to dinner. We even saw the presidential motorcade. Right now I'm exhausted and need to pack, but I do want to post at another time about our visit to Heaven, a fabulous restaurant with a mission. Stay tuned and good night!
Peter served as our master of ceremonies while various folks offered their comments. I then spoke and presented Linda with the certificate stating that she was receiving the scholarship. I also had Hamline bags with various Hamline swag to distribute. Thanks Gail and Caroline! Then others, such as Linda's dad and Linda, spoke to express their gratitude. All in all it was a fabulous little gathering and Ithink everyone enjoyed themselves. I'll try to post some photos another time.
Ann and I then went to the Belgium Troop Memorial, saw a lot of Kigali, went to Bourbon Coffee for a snack, went to the Caplaki Market for some souvenir time, saw more of Kigali, and then went out to dinner. We even saw the presidential motorcade. Right now I'm exhausted and need to pack, but I do want to post at another time about our visit to Heaven, a fabulous restaurant with a mission. Stay tuned and good night!
Friday
Back to Gashora
After a nice breakfast at our hotel, the Beausejour, Yvan - our fantastic guide from the 2012 trip - and the driver, Frank, picked us up. After a brief stop at the currency exchange and to pick up some water we headed to the Gashora Girls Academy of Science and Technology. GGAST is about an hour south of Kigali. It turned out to be, at that point, a beautiful, sunny day for which I was grateful. We were greeted by the head of school, Peter, and several others including Linda, the recipient of a scholarship to Hamline University. Yippee!! It was great to finally meet her in person. A delightful young woman, she gave us a tour of the school and we then visited with Peter and Amy, the university counselor. Afterwards we ate a lunch of spaghetti, potatoes, and avocado while visiting with Linda and several other girls. Yes, it's true, there's never a lack of starches in my Rwandan diet.
On the way back to Kigali we paid our respects at Nyamata and Ntarama, two genocide memorial sites in Bugesera, an area particularly hard hit by killings both before and during the 1994 genocide. At Nyamata we heard from a survivor. Had we not needed to continue on our way, she might have talked all afternoon - and I would have remained riveted all afternoon. Though she survived with all five of her children, she lost all other family, immediate and extended. While in hiding, one day her husband left to find food. That was the last time she ever saw him. I still can't really grasp how people with such experiences cope with the loss...
Approaching Kigali the darkening skies opened up and the torrential rains began. It's the short rainy season, thus my gratitude for a beautiful day up to that point. After a short break - and wait for the rain to let up - we ventured up the street to Chez Lando where we each had a chicken and pineapple brochette (kebab) and veggie sambusa, what some of you may know as a samosa. While I enjoyed the sambusa, the brochettes were disappointing. But, I did get a Fanta Citron and saved the bottle top for my friend, the Pop Top Girl. So, that was day one. A success, I'd say - regardless of brochette disappointment. Stay tuned for a brief update after day two!
On the way back to Kigali we paid our respects at Nyamata and Ntarama, two genocide memorial sites in Bugesera, an area particularly hard hit by killings both before and during the 1994 genocide. At Nyamata we heard from a survivor. Had we not needed to continue on our way, she might have talked all afternoon - and I would have remained riveted all afternoon. Though she survived with all five of her children, she lost all other family, immediate and extended. While in hiding, one day her husband left to find food. That was the last time she ever saw him. I still can't really grasp how people with such experiences cope with the loss...
Approaching Kigali the darkening skies opened up and the torrential rains began. It's the short rainy season, thus my gratitude for a beautiful day up to that point. After a short break - and wait for the rain to let up - we ventured up the street to Chez Lando where we each had a chicken and pineapple brochette (kebab) and veggie sambusa, what some of you may know as a samosa. While I enjoyed the sambusa, the brochettes were disappointing. But, I did get a Fanta Citron and saved the bottle top for my friend, the Pop Top Girl. So, that was day one. A success, I'd say - regardless of brochette disappointment. Stay tuned for a brief update after day two!
Wednesday
Back to Rwanda!
I thought that I'd use the blog from our May 2012 study abroad trip to post my thoughts about anything Hamline-Rwanda related, rather than starting yet another. And, I'm thrilled to write that one week from today I will be boarding my flight to Kigali, via Amsterdam.
During the 2012 trip, one of our site visits was to the Gashora Girls Academy, a project of the Rwanda Girls Initiative. My colleague, Kari, and I looked at each other, realizing we had the same thought, and said - words to the effect of - "We've got to get one of these girls to Hamline." Almost a year and half later, I have the honor of traveling to Rwanda to present one of Gashora's recent graduates with a scholarship to Hamline University. I encourage you to view this video to learn more about Gashora!
This is the current plan: We, my traveling companion - Ann Ness, our VP of Marketing and Enrollment Management - and I, will arrive in Kigali on Thursday evening, 7 November. On Friday, we will visit Gashora. On the way back we hope to stop at Ntarama and Nyamata. Ann has never traveled to Rwanda and I can't imagine going and not paying our respects at these memorials. On Saturday, we will meet the recipient's parents and present the scholarship. On Sunday, we will visit the Kigali Memorial Centre and, perhaps, a market. We fly out Sunday evening, back in the Twin Cities on Monday just after noon.
So, a real whirlwind trip. One day over, three days on the ground, a little more than one day back. And, yet, I can't wait. The opportunity to make my third trip to Rwanda is more than I could have dreamed when, in 2009, I first said, "Wouldn't it be great if we (Hamline) could do a study abroad to Rwanda?" Thanks, Kari!
If the hotel Internet is working I will try to post from the journey! Stay tuned!
During the 2012 trip, one of our site visits was to the Gashora Girls Academy, a project of the Rwanda Girls Initiative. My colleague, Kari, and I looked at each other, realizing we had the same thought, and said - words to the effect of - "We've got to get one of these girls to Hamline." Almost a year and half later, I have the honor of traveling to Rwanda to present one of Gashora's recent graduates with a scholarship to Hamline University. I encourage you to view this video to learn more about Gashora!
This is the current plan: We, my traveling companion - Ann Ness, our VP of Marketing and Enrollment Management - and I, will arrive in Kigali on Thursday evening, 7 November. On Friday, we will visit Gashora. On the way back we hope to stop at Ntarama and Nyamata. Ann has never traveled to Rwanda and I can't imagine going and not paying our respects at these memorials. On Saturday, we will meet the recipient's parents and present the scholarship. On Sunday, we will visit the Kigali Memorial Centre and, perhaps, a market. We fly out Sunday evening, back in the Twin Cities on Monday just after noon.
So, a real whirlwind trip. One day over, three days on the ground, a little more than one day back. And, yet, I can't wait. The opportunity to make my third trip to Rwanda is more than I could have dreamed when, in 2009, I first said, "Wouldn't it be great if we (Hamline) could do a study abroad to Rwanda?" Thanks, Kari!
If the hotel Internet is working I will try to post from the journey! Stay tuned!
Tuesday
Hamline Magazine and Begin
In the event that you are visiting this blog as a result of the Hamline Magazine article on our trip to Rwanda, thank you!
If you are hoping to find information regarding Begin, the non-profit seeking to provide sewing machines to women in Rwanda, please visit their site at http://launchingpeopleupward.blogspot.com/ or find them on facebook at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Begin/451325028238175.
And, if you didn't see the magazine article, but would like to, click here!
Be well!
If you are hoping to find information regarding Begin, the non-profit seeking to provide sewing machines to women in Rwanda, please visit their site at http://launchingpeopleupward.blogspot.com/ or find them on facebook at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Begin/451325028238175.
And, if you didn't see the magazine article, but would like to, click here!
Be well!
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